In the past few days at the Basel Watch Fair, I have mainly focused on Patek Philippe, Rolex and individual key watches. There are too many watches at the exhibition, and they cannot be written one by one. Today, I decided to focus on sorting out the important movement upgrades at the show. Some of these watch movements have a very direct impact on players, so in the future, I will specifically look for opportunities to give you a detailed analysis.
Chanel new J12
One of the most important things at this year’s show is that Chanel started using its own movement on the J12. Many players will say why it is so important to change the movement of the J12. Because Chanel J12 is one of our best-selling watches in China. In addition to watch lovers, many girls and fashion people like J12 very much. J12 was all the rage in the country, and once the value increased with the increase in heat, I also witnessed the ups and downs of J12. The production version of the J12 has always used a universal movement or a quartz movement (J12’s high-end model J12 3125 used a modified version of the Audemars Piguet 3120 movement, but this is just an example). Later, because J12 was too hot, many criminals copied J12. Because J12 uses a universal movement, the movement is not transparent, so it is not easy to identify.
The 12.1 self-produced movement used in Chanel’s new J12.
Today, the Chanel J12 is replaced with a new self-produced Chanel 12.1 self-winding movement. The movement penetrates the bottom. From then on, the J12 will be reborn. The origin of the Chanel 12.1 movement is as follows. Many players may know that Chanel has invested in many watch factories and independent watch brands in these years. Owns the technology of these watch factories and independent watch brands. The technology of the Chanel 12.1 movement is from the Kenissi movement factory. Senior players should be able to see some technical origins from the movement structure of the Chanel 12.1 movement. The technical level of this movement is sufficiently high. Chanel 12.1 oscillates at 28,800 times per hour, fine-tuned balance wheel with non-calibration weight, power for 70 hours, certified by the observatory. The central circular hollow rotor is very characteristic. This new movement not only greatly improves the technical level of J12, but also folk technology cannot be copied.
2.TAG Heuer AUTOVIA ISOGRAPH
Tag Heuer’s new AUTOVIA ISOGRAPH watch
This year TAG Heuer has launched a new series called AUTOAVIA ISOGRAPH series. The new series of watches follow the flight watch route, including a steel case, a bronze case, and various color schemes, which are very rich. There is an important technological upgrade in Tiger Heuer’s AUTOAVIA ISOGRAPH series watches.
Tag Heuer’s new AUTOVIA ISOGRAPH watch
The TAG Heuer AUTOAVIA ISOGRAPH series watches use the Cailbre 5 movement, namely the TAG Heuer version of the SW200 movement. But TAG Heuer changed the balance wheel and balance spring in the movement. TAG Heuer uses a new carbon composite hairspring. Today, with the popularity of silicon hairsprings, we have also seen some changes. Many watch brands, including the Swatch Group and LVMH Group, are developing new alloy hairsprings. It can be seen that silicon hairsprings are not the only direction in the future. Silicon hairsprings are likely to be replaced by new alloy hairsprings in the future. Although silicon hairspring is anti-magnetic and shock-resistant, it has the characteristics of integral molding. It is inferior to alloy hairspring in terms of maintenance adjustment and maintenance and replacement after decades. This may be the reason for the development of new alloy hairsprings. The carbon composite hairspring used in TAG Heuer Auvia ISOGRAPH is the latest technology of TAG Heuer. The carbon composite hairspring is light in weight and low in density. In addition to being magnetically and seismically stable, it has stable characteristics.
The new balance and carbon composite hairspring used in TAG Heuer’s new AUTOAVIA ISOGRAPH series watches.
We will wait and see whether silicon hairsprings will be replaced by new hairsprings like Tag Heuer carbon composite hairsprings in the future.
3. Zenith Defy Inventor
Players who have followed the watch for a long time should remember that in 2017, Zenith launched a Defy Lab watch. This watch is very cool, the balance, hairspring and escapement of the entire watch are all replaced by a single silicon component. A large silicon component can be seen on the hollow dial. At the time, this Defy Lab watch reached a frequency of 108,000 times per hour (15 Hz). As soon as this watch came out, it caused a shake in the watch altar, but at that time the technical display of this watch was relatively strong (limited to 10), and there was no mass production. This year, Zenith continued to improve its technology and launched a production version of the Defy Lab watch, the Defy Inventor watch.
Zenith’s new Defy Inventor watch
The new production version of the Defy Inventor watch looks and looks the same as the previous Defy Lab watch, but there are actually many changes. First of all, the Defy Inventor watch has improved the tooth shape of the escape wheel, while the escape wheel of the Defy Lab watch still tends to the traditional shape. The wobble frequency of the Defy Lab watch was 108000 times / hour (15 Hz). Now the wobble frequency of the new Defy Inventor watch is increased to 129600 times / hour (18 Hz). The swing frequency of the traditional mechanical watch is usually 3 Hz or 4 hertz. As the new Defy Inventor watch has increased wobble frequency, the power has dropped a bit, from 60 hours to 50 hours for the Defy Lab watch.
The escapement wheel on the Zenith Defy Inventor watch with improved tooth shape.
There are many technological innovations for the core components of the movement, such as the balance wheel, escapement, and hairspring, but most of the brands have stayed in small-scale limited production. Zenith has developed the balance wheel, hairspring, and escapement technology from the beginning to the mass production of this Defy Inventor. Although Zenith Defy Inventor’s technology cannot replace the traditional balance wheel, balance spring, escapement, but mass production of this completely innovative technology has proven Zenith’s superior technical strength. (Picture / text watch home Yan Danping)