Statement Piece, used to establish the industry’s ‘big watch’, all watch brands attach great importance. This watch often starts with complex functions, and occasionally it is innovative material; it is well done, and word of mouth is more effective than real money advertising. Of course, the complex function is more eye-catching, because it is a watchmaking tradition, and new materials will inevitably be criticized as ‘beside the door.’ But functional innovation is not easy. Clocks were born for hundreds of years. In the era of pocket watches, people have done almost everything they can. Watches are more miniaturized, integrated and refined. In the early twentieth century, Vacheron Constantin’s large and complex pocket watch for the King of Farouk in Egypt often took years to develop new watch functions. Brands often use ‘five years, eight years to develop’ to describe the birth of a new movement, they are not exaggerating. Functional innovation is difficult and difficult to understand. Vacheron Constantin released the Twin Beat dual-core perpetual calendar watch in 2019, and many people are amazed as a masterpiece; but some people say that two balance wheels are not unusual and have been made by brands, and there are even 4 balance wheels. The Twin Beat watch has different balance wheel and multiple escapement watches. For example, Cooper Fuss and Roger Dubuis are good players. They each have different types of multi-balance work, tilt angle, double body tourbillon, Double flying tourbillon, four balance wheel, etc. Their goal is precision, which achieves super precision through the simultaneous rotation of multiple balance wheels, which offset errors. Coperfus ‘four-body tourbillon’: two dual-axis tourbillons and the Vacheron Constantin dual-core perpetual calendar watch, which solves the problem of long power. Its two sets of escapement systems switch at different speeds: a 5 Hz high-frequency balance wheel is used for normal wear for 4 days when it is worn, and a 1.2 Hz low-frequency balance is switched when it is standing, and the watch runs accurately for at least 65 days. Vacheron Constantin inherits the series Twin Beat dual core rate perpetual calendar watch or we return to the original intention of Vacheron Constantin, and think from another angle: What is the solution of the watch’s long power? Looking back, we will find that many brands’long-powered works are realized through the“ open source ”idea, that is, to increase clockwork and energy storage. There is an increase in the length of the mainspring, such as the Lange 31, using two mainsprings of nearly 2 meters in length; there is an increase in the number of mainsprings, such as the Hublot Ferrari MP-05 model, which is connected to six mainspring boxes in series to obtain a 50-day power reserve. . The Lange 31-day power watch, with a diameter of 46 mm and a thickness of 16 mm, increases the size of the movement. Both Lange and Hublot watches are large, and the winder also needs tools. Vacheron Constantin solves the problem from the perspective of ‘throttling’, without adding additional clockwork and energy storage, and achieving 65-day power by reducing consumption. Innovation is not easy, nor is it all from scratch. Most of them think like this from a different perspective to change some old practices, or to improve with more convenient, better looking, better. Another example is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new big complex watch in 2019. The three questions, three-dimensional tourbillon and perpetual calendar seem to be the superposition of the traditional three major functions, but behind each item, there are places for the redesign and improvement of the Jaeger-LeCoultre workshop. Make your watch better. Jaeger-LeCoultre Classic Master Series Ball Tourbillon Westminster Zhongle Perpetual Calendar watch and GP Girard Perregaux Cosmos watch, starry sky display and world time functions are not unusual, but GP Girard Perregaux has its own technical expertise, passed 3D sphere to display, this is different. Next, we will use more pen and ink to tell the ‘big watch’ of the Geneva Watch Fair 2019, and appreciate the skills and beauty of high-end watchmaking. For the convenience of reading, we have divided this topic into two issues, this is the first one. Experts often make it difficult to distinguish between winners and losers, who can best represent the pinnacle of fine watchmaking this year? 01. Girard Perregaux: GP Girard Perregaux’s watchmaking theme in 2019 is ‘Earth to Sky’, which can be understood as the ground to the sky and the earth to the universe. The brand jokes that it ‘will go to heaven’. This Golden Bridge series Cosmos watch is the finishing touch. Cosmos is the meaning of the universe. ‘Universe watch’ is very intuitive. The Cosmos watch feels very light on hand. The dial is juxtaposed with two ‘planets’ on the dial-the earth at 3 o’clock, the constellation 12 at 9 o’clock; and the brand’s signature golden bridge tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Presenting time as a three-dimensional ball, Girard Perregaux has a special series, Planetarium Tri-Axial Tourbillon-the earth and the three-axis tourbillon dance together. This year the series has also updated an ‘Earth to Sky’ theme. The dial shows the stars of the universe with the gold effect. ‘Earth to Sky’ theme three-axis tourbillon planetary watch GP Girard Perregaux annual ‘big watch’ or Cosmos, the watch is based on titanium, very light, the earth and the celestial spheres are drawn with laser beams and coated with luminous coating Floor. The dial is made of metalized sapphire, and after the engraving process, it is coated with a luminous coating to create a deep sense of the universe. The Cosmos watch has no bezel design for luminous effect, the box-shaped sapphire mirror arches, and the two ‘planets’ on the dial are better viewed. The rotation of the earth also has the function of the world time zone, and it is displayed in conjunction with the 24-hour time scale; the starry sky rotates with the stellar day as the cycle, and the night sky is displayed on the case back. Cosmos watch star map sky and earth do not have a crown design, the bottom of the case has four shafts, you can operate by pulling the pull ring, which are used for winding, setting the time, adjusting the celestial globe and the earth display. The back of the Cosmos watch is a ‘big watch’. Of course, this Cosmos watch is not cheap. The official price is 2.433 million yuan. 02. Athens Watch: If the Freak X watch of the Whimsical Series is from the price point of view, the Freak X of the Whimsical Series of Athens cannot be regarded as a ‘big watch’. Its domestic sales price starts from RMB 148,000. And its positioning is also an introduction to the Whimsical series, but from the perspective of the movement, it is significantly different from the previous Freak watches, it has a crown, and it has a symbolic meaning. When the curious Freak X watch of Athens watch first took office in 2017, we interviewed which watch was the Icon brand, and his answer was Freak. And he made it clear at the time that he would focus on creating the Freak series, so that more people knew about the Athenian watch. He said so, and so did it. At the Geneva Watch Fair in January 2018, the new work Freak Vison was released as the flagship watch of this series. It has an exclusive and innovative functional structure: an oversized silicon balance wheel with a weighted nickel block, and a “grinding” type efficient automatic winding system. Freak Vision Watches In April, Athens Watch launched the first non-precious metal version of the Whimsical Watch. The titanium case Freak Out, the price is only half of the original precious metal version, a sensation. Whimsical Freak Out watch arrives in November. Freak Vision special customized service is launched. Through the app on the iPad in the Athens watch store, watch fans can choose their favorite color, pointer, bezel and other module parts to customize an exclusive personalized watch. . The Freak Vision watch custom app has arrived at SIHH 2019. This Freak X is even more impressive. From a price point of view, it makes it possible for every Athens watch fan to have a Freak watch. The Freak X watch combines the dual advantages of the brand Freak series and the classic series movement. It retains the basic characteristics of the ‘flying carrousel bar-shaped movement structure and rotates once per hour to display time’. The escapement system uses the same technology as Freak Vision , Silicon balance with weighted nickel blocks. However, part of the transmission gear is placed under the dial, and does not have the same design as Freak Vision and Freak Out-the entire wheel train is used as a strip carrousel to indicate the time, which reduces the difficulty and cost of the movement. The Carbonium case Freak X watch frankly states that this is also the reason why the Athens watch can reduce the price of Freak X works, and it is a means for more people to have the opportunity to purchase this special watch. This series is available in titanium, rose gold, black DLC coating and Carbonium (Carbonium). The precious metal version has the highest price, which is 240,000 yuan. 03. Jaeger-LeCoultre: Super Master Series Ball Tourbillon Westminster Zhongle Perpetual Calendar Super Master Series Ball Tourbillon Westminster Zhongle Perpetual Calendar-the name is very long, but it is also easy to remember and understand because All are familiar with traditional features. The superb traditional master series ball tourbillon Westminster Zhongle perpetual calendar watch tourbillon, minute repeater and perpetual calendar have hundreds of years of history, which are extremely practical functions in the era of pocket watches and have matured in technology. Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are functionally advanced, making them even better on a regular-size watch. Spherical tourbillon. Jaeger-LeCoultre started from the first generation of research and development in 2004, and this year is already the fifth watch with this function, but it has new ideas from structure to material. Jaeger-LeCoultre second-generation ball tourbillon watch, with a thickness of nearly 16 millimeters. We visited the Jaeger-LeCoultre workshop in Rugu Valley more than a year ago. The watchmaker carefully explained to us the ‘secret’ of the third-generation tourbillon: aluminum The spherical tourbillon frame is made from a solid aluminum alloy ball and processed through high-precision three-dimensional carving. The latest prototype of the spherical tourbillon frame, the innovation is to be precise while reducing the size to ensure that it can fit into a conventional case with a diameter of only 43 mm and a thickness of 14 mm. This time the dome frame uses titanium alloy with a diameter of 8.8 millimeters and holds 92 parts with a total weight of only 0.4 grams. Jaeger-LeCoultre also equips this globe with a 1-minute constant power device to ensure that the more energy-consuming spheres can get constant power to control the travel time accurately. The three-question function is generally two hammers, two gongs, treble time, treble and bass, and bass, and the time is notified by sound. Westminster Zhongle means that the minute repeater is the same as Big Ben in Westminster (also translated as Westminster) in London. bass. To achieve such a function, the watch needs to be equipped with a four-hammer and four-reed timekeeping component. The ‘Four Hammers and Four Springs’ movement is not only the same. Generally, the minute repeater may encounter a 1-minute error, that is, it takes some time to complete the alarm after the start of the alarm, which may cause the alarm time to differ by 1 minute from the final dial display time. This Jaeger-LeCoultre watch uses a 1-minute constant power mechanism to achieve the precise jump minute function, that is, the minute indication is completed in the last second instant jump instead of slow climbing, which reduces the ‘1 minute error’. The live demonstration of the timing sound is also very good, thanks to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s patented crystal gong design, that is, the gong and sapphire are welded and fixed together, and the sapphire crystal resonance propagates to enhance the sound transmission effect. The superb traditional master series ball tourbillon Westminster Zhongle perpetual calendar watch back last perpetual calendar, it is not an ordinary perpetual calendar, it can be adjusted back and forth arbitrarily. To achieve this convenience, the traditional rod spring type calendar structure is changed to a full gear type structure. The gears can be rotated back and forth, thereby avoiding the reverse regulation restricted area. However, this requires the addition of gear parts, and the number of jewel bearings is also increased. About half of the 137 jewel bearings of this large complex watch are applied to the perpetual calendar structure. The tourbillon, minute repeater and perpetual calendar are refined. The movement contains a total of more than 1,000 parts. The size of the watch does not exceed the usual. This shows that Jaeger-LeCoultre is superior in micro-machining and manual assembly and adjustment of the movement. Superb Traditional Master Series Ball Tourbillon Westminster Zhongle Perpetual Calendar Watch The normal watch size watch is priced at 800,000 Euros, which is more than RMB 6.2 million, including various taxes and fees. The domestic price is expected to be close to 10 million. For collectors In terms of this type of large and complex watch, it is worth the price. In addition to introducing the ‘big watch’, we also spent more time combing its ins and outs, briefly reviewing some brand history, hoping to bring everyone a clear context of these brands and watches. What kind of complication watches will be displayed at the Inner and Outer Watch Exhibition in 2019, and how brands can think hard and create a work of ‘famous reputation’, please pay attention to the next article. / end / Lu Xi’s interview notes Join readers, please send name + occupation + WeChat to [email protected]
The movement of the movement is precise, the journey is continuously extended, and time slowly settles. In 2012, Breitling added two new watches with advanced complex calendar functions to the Transoceanic series. The ultra-precise leap year calendar or extremely complex perpetual calendar, combined with endless timekeeping functions, inherited the transoceanic spirit of Breitling for more than half a century. Explain the extraordinary charm of time and travel.
The Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1461 integrates a sophisticated leap year calendar system into an efficient chronograph watch. It only needs to be adjusted once every leap year to “remember” 1461 days. On the engraved classic ‘B’ logo, the double-star accompanied moon display window changes in response to the dark and clear of the moon phase in the night sky, which is deeply enchanting. The complicated dial, the retro stainless steel woven bracelet, and the simple case lines form a unique contrast beauty. The appearance follows the classic design of the Transoceanic watch. The classic round chronograph button with retro flavor expresses the Breitling brand’s respect for the first waterproof chronograph button. The ‘short stick’ luminous hands show the watch’s modern temperament. An elegant and noble wrist treasure.
The Breitling Transocean Chronograph QP has an extremely sophisticated and complex perpetual calendar system, which can automatically calculate the different days of each month and the February 29th that only appears in leap years. Therefore, the date, week, and week can be displayed continuously and accurately. Number, month, season, leap year cycle, and moon phases. This extraordinary timepiece is made of 18K red gold with a black leather strap and a pure black dial, which adds a sense of luxury and mystery under the toughness. Or choose a silver dial for grace. Two models are limited to 25 pieces each. Admired by his wrists, he is like an old friend who has been baptized through time. He is wise and stern, and accompanies the various landscapes in the journey of life. Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1461
Movement: Breitling 19 movement, certified by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC), self-winding, 28,800 high-frequency swings per hour, 38 gem bearings; timing accuracy of 1/4 second, with 30 minutes and 12 hours cumulative timing Calendar; leap year calendar showing date, week, month and moon phase;
Case: stainless steel; water resistance to 50 meters (165 feet / 5 atmospheres); convex sapphire crystal, anti-glare treatment on both sides; diameter: 43 mm;
Dial: black, water silver;
Strap / Bracelet: Barenia leather strap, crocodile leather strap, Ocean Classic stainless steel woven bracelet
Breitling Transocean Chronograph QP
Movement: Breitling Caliber 29, certified by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC), self-winding, high swing frequency of 28,800 per hour, 38 jewel bearings; timing accuracy of 1/4 second, with 30 minutes and 12 hours cumulative timing Perpetual calendar, showing date, week, week number, month, season, leap year cycle and moon phase;
Case: 18K red gold, two limited editions of 25 pieces; water resistance to 50 meters (165 feet / 5 atmospheres); convex sapphire crystal, anti-glare treatment on both sides; diameter: 43 mm;
Dial: black, water silver;
Strap: Barenia leather strap, crocodile leather strap